Injury Prevention

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Dr. Volker Schöffl

Professor and Doctor of Medicine

A specialist in sports medicine, general surgery, trauma surgery and orthopedics at the Klinikum Bamberg in Bamerg, Germany. Dr. Schoffl is an avid climber himself. Dr. Schoffl has this to say about PowerFingers:

“Medial Epicondylitis [Golfer Elbow] is a major issue in climbers. Due to the focus on the flexor muscles through training and climbing these tend to shorten and having a high muscular tension. In contradiction the extensors are weak, even if we need them, as most crimping techniques need an overextended wrist joint, which is done through the wrist extensors. Training the antagonists is an essential part in my therapy regimen in epicondylitis, both the finger and wrist extensors. training the wrist extensors is easy, while training the finger extensors is more tricky. PowerFingers are a very good tool to do this and I totally recommend it – both for therapy and Prophylaxis [INJURY Prevention]”
nina-neonfeller

Nina Leonfellner

Top Climbing Physical Therapist and article writer for UK Climbing

Nina Leonfeller: Top Climbing Physical Therapist and article writer for UK Climbing. Nina is the lead clinical Sports Physiotherapist at the University of Bristol. She has this to say about PowerFingers:

‘You need wrist extensor strength to hold powerful positions of finger flexion, in other words, to be stronger with your finger pulling. A strong wrist acts like an anchor for the fingers. PowerFingers is a practical, easy-to-use alternative to the rice bucket training I prescribe for climbers. The ability to double up the bands is an easy way to increase resistance.

Muscle & Tendon Hypertrophy

The size of the flexor tendons can increase in size due to increased activity of the flexor muscles / tendons during activities such as gripping, typing, etc.

These activities directly exercise and strengthen the flexor muscles / tendons, causing them to become shorter and thicker, than normal, resulting in decreased space within the carpal tunnel and the compression of the median nerve and blood vessels.

The solution to reducing the size of the flexor tendons is to stretch and lengthen the flexor muscles / tendons, resulting in increased space within the carpal tunnel and the elimination of the impingement of the median nerve and associated vessels.

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